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Sanding Grits Explained: Choosing the Right Abrasive

From 40-grit on body filler to 3000-grit before buffing, the grit progression matters more than the brand. Here's the standard sequence pros use.

5 min read Updated May 2026 Reviewed by AutofxMart pros

Guide content

The grit scale, simplified

Sandpaper grit numbers are inverse-proportional to grain size — lower numbers are coarser, higher numbers are finer. The most important thing to know: skipping more than 100 grit steps in a progression leaves scratches the finer paper can't level out.

The pro progression for a respray

Stage Grit Use
Body filler shaping 36–40 Aggressive cut on fresh filler. Use a hand block or DA with a 6" pad.
Filler feathering 80–120 Feather the filler edge into surrounding metal/primer. DA-only.
Primer prep 180–220 Final cut before 2K primer. Eliminates the 80-grit scratches.
Primer block-sand 320 (dry) or 400 (wet) Level the primer film smooth. Reveals low spots.
Final pre-basecoat 500–600 (wet) Smoothest finish before color. Some shops go to 600 dry instead.
Clearcoat cut (if reflow needed) 1000–1500 (wet) Remove orange peel before polish.
Clearcoat polish prep 2000–3000 (wet) Finest scratches before buffing compound.
Rule of thumb Never skip more than one grit step. Going 80 → 320 directly leaves visible scratches under the basecoat.

Wet vs dry sanding

Dry sanding is faster, doesn't introduce moisture into the panel, and works for primer cut, body filler shaping, and feathering. Most shops dry-sand through 320, then wet-sand 400+.

Wet sanding uses water (sometimes with a few drops of dish soap) as a lubricant. It eliminates clogging, produces a finer finish, and cools the panel. Required for cutting clear coat.

Backing pad sizes matter

  • 6" pads — standard for DA sanders. Most common.
  • 5" pads — better for tight curves and edges.
  • 3" mini pads — for spot repair, jambs, and tight areas.
  • Long boards (longboards) — 16"–30" hand boards for large flat panels (hoods, doors). Critical for show-quality finish.

Hook-and-loop vs PSA

Hook-and-loop (Velcro) backed paper attaches and removes from a matching pad. Fast to swap. Wears out the pad over time but is the production standard. Eagle Abrasives MaxFilm, 3M Hookit, Norton hook-loop.

PSA (pressure-sensitive adhesive) paper sticks once, then peels off. Cleaner cut on long boards. 3M Stikit, Norton A275 PSA.

Most shops run hook-and-loop on DAs and PSA on long boards.

Disc styles by job

Solid sanding discs

Standard hook-and-loop discs with no holes. Best for filler shaping and rough cutting. Tend to load up faster without dust extraction.

Multi-hole "Hookit Clean Sanding" discs

Discs with many small holes that mate to a vacuum-equipped DA. Drastically reduce dust, extend disc life, and produce a cleaner sand scratch. 3M Cubitron II 737U is the gold standard.

Film-backed discs

Polyester film instead of paper backing. Resists tearing, sands flatter for primer/clear stages. Eagle MaxFilm, Norton Premium 1.

Brand recommendations by stage

Filler shaping (36–120)

3M Cubitron II 36+ for fastest cut. 3M 977F P80 hand-feathering rolls for blending edges.

Primer prep (180–320)

Eagle Abrasives MaxFilm 220 hook-and-loop. 3M Hookit 320 multi-hole for vacuum DA setups.

Pre-basecoat finish (500–600)

3M Hookit 500 wet/dry. Norton A275 No-Fil 600 for fewer scratches.

Clearcoat reflow (1000–3000)

3M Trizact 3000 for the final cut before polish. Norton ICE 2000/3000 also excellent.

Common mistakes

  • Going too fine too early — 800 grit can't remove 80-grit scratches efficiently. Step up gradually.
  • Wet-sanding primer — soaks moisture into the film. Wait until 400+ grit for water-based sanding.
  • Sanding without dust extraction — loads up paper, reduces life 3x, and leaves abrasive dust under the next coat.
  • Using a worn pad with new paper — uneven cut. Replace pads every 50–100 hours of use.

Our recommendations

Below are the abrasives we re-stock weekly. Each step is represented by the brand and grit pros prefer for that stage.